We spent a weekend in Bangkok, thankfully during a lull in the protests (when negotiations between Abhisit and the Red Shirts still seemed promising). We stayed in Nana, a great part of Bangkok that’s within walking distance of good midde-eastern and Indian food, bars with live music, and the BTS skytrain. That evening at Bangkok Beat, my friends got their first extended glimpse of the ever-creepy old farang/young Thai woman dynamic, and I realized how much I’ve learned to put this part of Thailand aside to focus on the brighter parts.
We began Saturday at the best place to get lost, Chatuchak Market, followed by the massive reclining Buddha at Wat Pho. We dined at a waterside restaurant called “The Deck,” which overlooked Wat Arun across the waters of the Chao Phraya river. That evening I returned for the first time in six months to Khao San Road, the famous backpacker alley jam-packed with bars and overpriced goods. As every Southeast-Asian traveler comes to learn, there is a Khaosan road in almost every country, and it’s always same tourist cesspool.
On Sunday evening we boarded a southbound train to Surat Thani, then hopped on a bus to Khao Sok National Park early Monday morning. Our first night was spent on the outskirts of Khao Sok at a treehouse lodge by the river, where we swung into the water with a rope swing. That afternoon we partook in a famous Thai elephant trek; I’m actually not a big fan elephant trekking, I always feel like it’s not a particularly comfortable ride for the elephant or myself. The best part was the waterfall at the end, which was deep enough to jump into the water from the rocks above.


The rest of our time was spent on the actual lake, living in floating lakehouses only accessible by speedboat. We spent our time attempting to balance across a bamboo stick in the water (see above), kayaking, playing cards with our new Thai friends, and being taken around by our guide, Yoo. Yoo was not only great at English, he had a propensity towards sarcasm I don’t often find in Thais. He took us on a three-hour hike through a cave, and suggested we only wear flip-flops. Yoo managed to brave the slippery trail and rushing waters of the cave completely unscathed, but the rest of us emerged with a mixture of bruises, cuts and leeches (and broken flip-flops). Our rough daytime hike contrasted sharply with our morning, which was spent gliding along the glassy lake and spotting gibbons and langurs as they swung through the forest. The large limestone mountains surrounding the water were often covered in a haze of misty clouds, and the placidity of the lake kept me calm in spite of a creeping cold.

Our final stop, Ko Samui, provided some nice down-time after our jungle adventure, although leaving the lake was bittersweet. On the island we lounged on the beach, did a small hike to a waterfall, and ate out at several nice restaurants. Ko Samui is the largest and most touristy of the Surat Thani island series (which also includes Ko Tao and Ko Phagnan) thus it had plenty of bars and entertainment. Ko Tao is the only one I have yet to visit, and it’s supposed to be the smallest with the best diving… sign me up.

I’m back in school these days, adjusting to our new gender-segregated office (no men, no internet, no printer…) and attempting to get ready for classes in spite of not having a new schedule. In other words, new office, new teachers, new students… same ol’ story.